The bucolic Yarra Valley is the home to one of Australia’s most exciting winery developments, Levantine Hill Estate.
In 2007, after a four-year global search, Elias and Colleen Jreissati found the perfect vineyard location to establish their new wine estate. Their unwavering commitment to the brand’s vision of ‘exceptional wines, hand-crafted without compromise’ is producing exciting dividends.
“I already run a successful property development company,” explains Elias Jreissati, “but I wanted a business that could be a legacy for my family. My Father worked for my Grandfather who was a vigneron, and I have fond memories as a child of running through the wine caves in Lebanon and the musty smell of the wine bottles. With two of my daughters now working for Levantine Hill, I am excited to see my vision turning into a reality.”
On the day of our visit, we were transported to the vineyard by helicopter. Departing from the Yarra Bank, opposite the Crown Casino, the 15 minute flight took us over the city of Melbourne, gave us a bird’s eye view of Melbourne’s major sporting complexes, including the iconic Melbourne Cricket Ground, and flew across the great urban sprawl east to the Yarra Valley.
It wasn’t long before the grey of the urban development changed to the startling emerald green of the open fields and rolling hills leading into the Yarra Valley. The approach by air gave us a full view of the impressive Levantine Hill Estate, resplendent with vineyards and a recently-built Homestead.
The Homestead is situated on top of the Estate’s hill and overlooks the distinctively landscaped fan-shaped vineyards and some of the premier vineyards in the Yarra Valley.
Levantine Hill Estate comprises two vineyards: one that has been producing outstanding grapes since the mid-1990s, and the other a combination of more recently-planted family blocks – including a Truffiére.
There are 23 ha planted to traditional French varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. “It’s quite simple,” said Jreissati, “our benchmarks are the First Growth wines of Bordeaux, Grand Cru wines of Burgundy and the best Syrah wines of Hermitage in the Côte du Rhône – only our wines will also benefit from the unique characters of the Yarra Valley.”
An example of this commitment to style is their ‘Samantha’s Paddock’ vineyard, where the varieties planted are in the same percentage as those of Lafite Rothschild. As Australian Financial Review’s Jacquie Hayes wrote, “if he nails it he could be one of the few Australian boutique operators… that consistently makes it on to the buy lists of serious wine investors who would more generally look to France.”
We were provided with a tour of the Homestead, which was a testament to Elias and Colleen Jreissati’s impeccable taste and desire to be surrounded only with the highest quality. The superbly decorated property contained ten separate living areas (including a games room and luxury cinema), a variety of formal to casual dining areas, four guest suites (each with private bathrooms), four open fires, wine cellar and internal and external kitchens.
The great hall was similarly impressive, decorated in a mountain lodge theme, with exposed timber trusses recycled from the stands of the South Melbourne Football Club and locally quarried stone a feature of the large open fireplace.
It is difficult to walk through the property quickly, as one’s attention is constantly drawn to the museum-quality artworks adorning the walls from renowned Australian painters such as Boyd, Streeton, McCubbin and Whiteley.
The owner’s luxury suite is separate (but under the same roof) and in itself larger than an average home. The massive ensuite featured two freestanding bathtubs, each tailored to the owners’ preferred water temperature.
Over 90% of the external walls of the Homestead are glass, which makes the most of the stunning views from all aspects. For those who demand the best of everything and value privacy, the Homestead is available for guest rental (details are on their website). The rental fee includes the use a Mercedes ML during the stay, and transfer to/from Melbourne either by limousine or by helicopter.
To oversee the crafting of the wines, highly experienced winemaker, Paul Bridgeman, was appointed to the team in 2013. Production size is small, with just under 5,000 dozen bottles of wine produced in the 2014 vintage.
The aim is to increase production to 10,000 dozen. “Attention to detail is crucial,” said Bridgeman. “Everything is done by hand – harvesting, grape sorting and plunging. We even use the traditional method of pigeage to break the berries to start fermentation.”
Each row of vines is assessed for ripeness and only the identified ripe grapes are harvested at the perfect time. “As grapes in a vineyard mature at different times, we make several batches of wine from the one vineyard in the same vintage,” he said.
“Each batch of wine is assessed daily and treated for its individual requirements to reach our optimum specifications. To achieve a quality improvement of 2-5% might well cost 50% more, but if that’s what it takes, then we pursue it.” Only grapes that meet the exacting standards are vinified. “Last vintage, we had budgeted to make 500 cases of Colleen’s Paddock Pinot Noir, but as a result of our rigorous selection criteria we only made 111 cases,” said Bridgeman.
The next phase of development at Levantine Hill Estate has commenced with construction of an iconic cellar door and restaurant scheduled for completion in 2015. Designed by Fender Katsalidis Architects (of the Melbourne Eureka Tower and Hobart’s MONA fame) and with acclaimed chef Teage Ezard at the helm of the restaurant, it should attract plenty of attention.
“Establishment of Levantine Hill Estate is an ambitious, challenging and ongoing undertaking and many people advised me against it,” said Jreissati, “but my favourite quote, by George Bernard Shaw, is: The reasonable man adapts himself to the world: the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man. I think there’s something in that.”
2013 Levantine Hill Sauvignon Blanc Semillon
A delightful white wine made in the Bordeaux style. The Sauvignon Blanc is 100% barrel fermented and the Semillon fermented in stainless steel. At 12.5% alcohol, it is a perfect wine to enjoy with lunch.
2014 Levantine Hill Rosé
100% Cabernet Sauvignon, fermented in stainless steel. Fragrant with lovely red fruit characters, savory with a hint of spice and made in the European style between Rosato and Provençale Rosé.
2013 Levantine Hill Pinot Noir
Fruit selected from vines established in 1995 using D2V5 and MV6 clones. Cherry and strawberry flavours with savoury notes and a hint of leather and spice. Aged in quality French oak this is an outstanding Pinot from the famed Yarra Valley.
2013 Levantine Hill Syrah
A wine with great flavour, intrigue and intensity. Luscious dark red fruit characters with fruit sweetness and signature white pepper. A surprising wine that will not fail to impress.
2012 Levantine Hill Samantha’s Paddock
Mélange Traditionnel – blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, elegant and clean, fresh berry and herb aromas supported by silky tannins and new French oak.